The 2022 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge Vineyard''s singularity is immediately clear. Over several minutes in the glass, its spicy perfume blooms: white peaches, lemongrass and lilac are complemented by white pepper and exotic, spicy undertones. The palate delivers satiny layers of ripe citrus, honey and spice, foiled by fireworks of fresh acidity. Despite the challenges of the vintage, the Laguna Ridge (bottled only in magnums) has what it needs for a long life in the cellar.